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The 4 C’s classify the value of diamonds. Every diamond’s price, rarity and beauty are determined by the combination of cut, color, clarity and carat weight.

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Cut

Many people think that “cut” simply describes the shape of a diamond, such as round brilliant, princess, emerald or oval.  However, cut it is MUCH more than that!  The shape of a diamond is only the beginning. 

The cut of a diamond has the greatest effect on its beauty and value.  A diamond’s cut grade measures how brilliant and visually appealing the diamond is by taking the proportions and angles into consideration.  Nature influences the carat weight, color, and clarity of a diamond.  Cut, however, is determined by the individual that facets and shapes the diamond. A diamond can be flawless and colorless, but it will not be beautiful if it does not dance with light.   It takes a master diamond cutter to reveal a diamond’s true beauty. 

Diamonds are cut to very exacting standards.  The most common cut, the round brilliant, has 58 facets, or small, flat, polished planes designed to yield the maximum amount of light reflected to the viewer.  This reflection, known as brilliance, is an important factor in evaluating the quality of a diamond’s cut.  A poorly cut diamond will lose light and appear dull.  The widest circumference of a diamond is known as the girdle.  Above the girdle of a brilliant-cut diamond are 32 facets plus the table, which is the topmost facet.  Below the girdle are 24 facets plus the culet, or point. 

A diamond is a tiny set of mirrors (facets at angles) that reflect and refract light.  A well-cut diamond reflects light from one mirror-like facet to another and projects the light through the top of the stone.  The result is a fiery and brilliant display.  When light enters a diamond, the diamond material slows and bends the light waves.  When light waves slow and bend, the white light is dispersed into its spectral (rainbow) colors.  Every angle and every facet that is cut on the diamond affect the amount and quality of light that is returned to your eye.  Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow leak light through the sides or bottom, resulting in a lackluster appearance and a diminished value.  The “ideal” in superior craftsmanship in the diamond cutting process is that all cutting factors are at the highest levels of precision and perfection to make the maximum contribution to the diamond’s beauty.  That beauty makes the diamond more valuable.  

When selecting a diamond, it is most important to choose one that appeals to you.  While the technical aspects are important, it is most essential to fall in love with your diamond.  

Color

Diamonds come in every color of the spectrum, but the most popular are colorless and near colorless (D-J).  Truly colorless, pure white diamonds are extremely rare and, therefore, the most costly.  Laboratories, like the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.), grade diamonds according to how far they deviate from the purest white.  Colorless diamonds are graded D, E, or F (see chart below).  All three grades are considered colorless but with slightly increasing body color.  Color grading continues down through the alphabet, with each letter designating a slightly darker or warmer tint.  The best way to see the true color of a diamond is by looking at it upside down against a white surface. 

Colored diamonds, known as fancies, are values for their depth of color, just as white diamonds are values for their lack of color.  Therefore, fancy color diamonds are graded in order of increasing intensity from Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Dark, and Fancy Deep. 

 Diamond color grades are determined by professionals under ideal circumstances, a situation seldom duplicated outside of a laboratory.  At J. F. Kruse, we educate you about color, then help you select a diamond based on its appeal to you.  

Clarity

A diamond’s clarity is a measure of any naturally occurring external and internal characteristics created when the diamond is formed in the earth or as a result of the cutting process.  Characteristics such as internal spots or lines are called inclusions.  Although these marks make each stone unique, the fewer the inclusions, the more valuable the diamond.  Inclusions sometimes interfere with light passage through the diamond, diminishing a diamond’s sparkle and value.  The greater a diamond’s clarity, the more rare and valuable it is. 

 The quality analysis system of the G.I.A. grades clarity on a scale ranging from Flawless (FI) to Imperfect (I).  Only a tiny percentage of diamonds ever achieve a grade of Flawless. 

 It’s important to remember that both color and clarity are ranges.  Think of a color or clarity grade as your age.  If you’re 37 years old, your 37^th birthday may have been yesterday, or your 38^th birthday may be next month.  But when someone asks your age, you simply tell them you’re 37.  It works the same way with color and clarity grading.  For example, a diamond with a G color grade could, in fact, be very close to an F or to an H.  The same principle applies to clarity grading. 

At J. F. Kruse Jewelers, we take diamond quality very seriously.  We show you each diamond through a microscope with 10 power magnification and guide you through the process to ensure that your diamond’s clarity and overall beauty is appealing to you.  

Carat Weight

“Carat” is the measure of a diamond’s weight.  The term is derived from the carob sees that were used the balance scales in ancient times.  Today’s metric carat is equal to 200 milligrams, or one-fifth of a gram, and there are approximately 142 carats to an ounce. 

Carats are further divided into points.  There are 100 points in a carat.  To better illustrate this, think of carat weight in relationship to the number of pennies in a dollar.  For instance, a half-carat diamond weighs .50 carat, or 50 points, and a three-quarter carat weighs .75 carat, or 75 points.  Since larger diamonds are found less frequently in nature, they generally have a greater value per carat.  At J. F. Kruse Jewelers, we help you select the right carat weight for your jewelry to optimize its beauty.